After exploring the north and west of the island of Crete, it was time to discover the east and then head south! Here are the top 10 spots in the south and east that we visited and want to share with you:
1. Agios Nikolaos
We had rented a car to explore the eastern side of Crete – the island is just so big! Our new friend Dustin, whom we met during a visit to a local brewery, had highly recommended this town. He described it as a charming place: big enough for lively terraces and shops, yet still cozy and relaxed.
We found a lovely little hotel overlooking the harbor (of course!) and were lucky that in this winter season there were plenty of rooms available – so we ended up with a balcony and a real sea view. It was stunning, both in the afternoon light and at night!
2. Kritsa – the church with colorful 13th/14th-century frescoes
Just a 15-minute drive from Agios Nikolaos lies the traditional mountain village of Kritsa, where time seems to stand still. Narrow streets and whitewashed houses – but our real reason for visiting was the Panagia Kera Church, just outside the village.
This small Byzantine church, surrounded by olive trees, holds something truly unique: murals from the 13th and 14th centuries, among the best-preserved frescoes in Crete. When we arrived at 10:00 am, a woman was standing by the entrance. She turned out to be the church’s caretaker. Although it was supposed to open at 8:00, we were apparently the first visitors – she opened the doors and turned on the lights just for us.
Inside, we were struck by silence. The outside of the church is very modest, but the interior reveals a world of color, symbolism, and craftsmanship. Every inch of the walls is painted with biblical scenes, portraits of saints, and episodes from the life of Mary.
What’s even more impressive is that these frescoes have survived the centuries – through wars, occupations, and natural erosion. It felt like walking through a visual prayer book.
The caretaker pointed out small details: how facial expressions convey emotion, and how symbolic gestures are embedded in colors and poses. It was fascinating and intimate – no crowds, just silence and awe.
3. A living monument: the ancient olive tree of Kavousi
We had read that close to the church there was another highlight: one of the oldest olive trees in Crete – and in the world. So, we followed a narrow winding road uphill with our white rental car, and the landscape became wilder and more rugged. And suddenly, there it was: a mighty olive tree, over 3,000 years old.
According to archaeologists, this tree was planted during the Minoan period, meaning it stood here when the Palace of Knossos was still in use. Even more amazing: it still bears fruit.
Surrounded by a simple stone wall and a small information sign, the site had no ticket booth, no gates, and no crowds. Just us and the tree. It felt like a quiet encounter with Crete’s deep past – not in a museum, but right there in the landscape.
It’s almost unimaginable that this place was once part of a thriving mountain farming community where, thousands of years ago, people lived, worked, and produced olive oil.
During the 2004 Olympic Games in Athens, a branch from this very tree was used in the opening ceremony – woven into a kotinos, the traditional olive wreath given to ancient Olympic champions.
This particular tree was chosen for its age, Minoan heritage, and location on Crete – the heart of Europe’s oldest civilization. Since then, it has been officially recognized as one of the Olive Trees of Olympic Heritage, a rare honor shared by only a few trees worldwide. While millions watch the Games, this ancient tree quietly contributes to a global moment of peace and continuity.
4. Toplou Monastery
So much culture and nature in Crete! We headed even further east and stopped at the Toplou Monastery. The landscape changed again – rugged hills, open plains, almost desert-like terrain.
We spotted the monastery from afar – a fortress-like structure rising from the arid surroundings. Built in the 15th century, it served both as a religious center and a defensive outpost against pirates and later invaders. Its thick walls, tall bell tower, and fortified gate hinted at its complex history.
Inside, it felt like an oasis. Flower pots filled the courtyards, and although everything was officially closed, a friendly man watering the plants let us into the monastery’s main hall.
We entered a room filled with precious icons, ancient manuscripts, silverware, and religious garments, all carefully preserved and beautifully displayed.
The monastery’s role in modern history also stood out. During WWII, it sheltered members of the resistance and hosted secret meetings. Today, Toplou is not only a spiritual site but a symbol of freedom and resilience.
Outside the monastery walls, you’ll find vineyards and olive groves still cared for by the monks. In the small shop, you can buy their own olive oil, wine, raki, and herbal teas – all made with love and tradition.
5. Vai – Crete’s palm beach
We continued our drive east and descended towards the coast – now reaching the easternmost tip of Crete. After the barren hills, we suddenly saw them: not just a few palm trees, but a whole forest.
Vai is unique: with around 5,000 date palms (Phoenix theophrasti) spread over 250,000 square meters, it is the largest natural palm forest in Europe.
Legend says the forest grew from date seeds left behind by Arab pirates. Scientists, however, believe this rare ecosystem has always grown here naturally – it exists nowhere else in Europe.
As we approached the beach, the atmosphere instantly changed. A crescent-shaped bay, soft golden sand, shallow turquoise waters, and those swaying palms – it felt like we were in the Caribbean, but we were still on Crete.
We sent up our drone to capture the full beauty of the forest from above – and the views were incredible.
Fun fact: this exact beach was used in the famous 1980s Bounty chocolate commercial, giving it the nickname “Bounty Beach.” We looked it up later and instantly recognized the cliff and beach view!
6. Ierapetra – the southernmost city in Europe
The eastern tip of the island, outside of Vai, is barely touristic. So we had quite a drive ahead before finding a hotel for the night. Late in the afternoon, we arrived in Ierapetra, a vibrant town on the Libyan Sea, and finally found a lovely hotel.
Ierapetra felt instantly different from the towns on the north coast. The climate is drier and warmer, the atmosphere more southern, and the pace slower. It’s not only Crete’s southernmost city but also the southernmost in all of Europe. Maybe that’s why it has such a distinct character – a blend of authentic Greek life and traces of the Ottoman era, with an old mosque and historic fountain.
It was the perfect place to unwind after a full day. Our hotel was a large converted house with apartments – again with a balcony and a sea view.
The town was lively but not crowded. We found a bustling restaurant – always a good sign in the off-season 😉 – and were warmly welcomed. A table was quickly added just for us.
7. Lassithi Plateau
After a good night’s sleep, we headed back into the mountains to visit the famous Lassithi Plateau. The journey itself was a treat: winding roads, deep gorges, and the shifting shapes of the Dikti mountains.
Suddenly, the plateau appeared: a wide, fertile plain over 800 meters above sea level, surrounded by peaks, dotted with villages and fields as far as the eye could see.
One of the first things we noticed was a row of stone windmills. There were about 20 in view, but once, there were over 10,000 of them! These windmills used to pump water from the ground for irrigation – a lifeline for agriculture here.
The Lassithi Plateau has long been the agricultural heart of eastern Crete, with a unique microclimate and plenty of groundwater. Even today, the 18 villages around the plateau live primarily from farming.
Near the famous windmill row, we visited a small museum that explains more about the plateau’s history and the role of the windmills.
We flew our drone to capture this sweeping valley from above – the perfect blend of natural beauty and human ingenuity.
8. Matala – Long live the Flower Power
Back to the south coast! We drove down to Matala, a village nestled in a half-moon bay with golden sand and steep cliffs carved with the famous Matala caves – hewn from soft limestone, right above the sea.
Originally used as Roman burial chambers, the caves took on a new identity in the 1960s and ’70s when they became home to a global community of hippies – including none other than Joni Mitchell.
People slept on blankets, lived simply, and shared everything. Matala became a symbol of freedom, connection, and nature.
Though the authorities eventually forced the hippies to leave in the ’70s, their spirit lingers. The village still has a creative, free vibe, with colorful murals, artisan shops, handmade jewelry, and beach bars playing Bob Dylan and Janis Joplin.
9. Preveli
From Matala, we continued east along the southern coast of Crete. The mountain roads were breathtaking, with dramatic cliffs and occasional glimpses of the sea between the rocks.
What stood out along the way were the small fishing villages and harbors we passed – not luxury yachts or tourist boats, but real working fishing boats, painted in bright colors with drying nets draped along the docks.
We paused at the scenic Preveli Beach, a bay where the Kourtaliotis River meets the Libyan Sea, framed by palm trees and cliffs. The view was so striking we stopped for a photo – and a long breath of sea air.
10. Sellia
Our road trip through the inland, east and south of Crete was coming to an end. One last stop before heading back to our catamaran on the northwest coast: Sellia.
This small mountain village may not be a major destination, but its heart is special – a little village square with an old fountain. Surrounded by plane trees, tavernas, and stone houses, it’s full of charm. We sat down for lunch at a shaded taverna and enjoyed the moment.
The fountain is locally known as the “Lion Fountain” (Krifí Kríni me to Leonta), named after the lion’s head spout – a design inspired by Venetian fountains found throughout Crete, since the lion was the symbol of the Republic of Venice, which ruled the island from the 13th to the 17th century.
This fountain once served as the village’s main water source – a place to collect water, wash vegetables, play, clean animals, and exchange news.
The water still flows from a natural mountain spring, piped directly from the Psiloritis Mountains. It’s fresh, unfiltered, and has been a vital source of drinking water for generations.
Listening to the trickle of the water, it felt peaceful – the perfect way to end our road trip through the hidden heart of Crete.
It was time to move on from Crete. We decided to continue our journey and explore some of the Cycladic islands. In the next blog, we’ll tell you all about that!
